Mike Press Wines Pinot Noir 2004

There has been quite a buzz on the local discussion boards about the Mike Press range of wines, especially in terms of the value on offer (I think the most expensive wine goes for $120/dozen). The wines I have tasted from the range have all been well-made and, more importantly to me, of individuality and character. Considering it's possible to buy wines in the $20 and $30 price ranges that are correct but blandly corporate, this is quite an achievement.

If you're used to, say, the mainstream Yarra Valley or Marlborough style of pinot, this wine might come as a shock. It is a restrained style with a focus on structure and line, rather than fruit volume.

The nose is relative expressive and, although bright fruit is present, it's a little overwhelmed at present by caramel/malt oak. Some savoury/undergrowth complexities are also present.

On entry, the wine's flavours intensify quite rapidly and fruit expresses itself early in the wine's structure. The middle palate is generous and moderately intense without losing its focus and acid-driven line. Caramel, resiny oak again picks up the flavour profile from the middle of the palate onwards and leads into a rounded, finely drying finish of adequate length.

To me, this wine tastes a little awkward and oak-heavy right now, but there's good fruit in there and a dollop of structure to keep the wine going. It's hard to keep your hands off such a well-priced wine, and I don't have a clear sense of how this wine might develop, but I'll stash a couple of bottles aside and see.

Two light red wines with dinner

Stefano Lubiana Primavera Pinot Noir 2006

The first of two wines consumed last night with dinner. This one served as a nice aperitif and accompaniment to our entry of a cheese and garlic calzone.

It was a bit hard to smell much from the dodgy restaurant goblets we were using, but floral aromas of dried and fresh fruits emerged from the glass with a bit of swirling. Not the most expressive nose but certainly true to the rest of the wine's flavour profile and of corresponding intensity. The entry is bright and immediately launches the wine's fruit flavours, which comprise the sort of heavy floral note I associate with dried apricots, as well as bright red fruit. Light bodied, with well balanced acidity. The wine's aftertaste is rather truncated, though, and fruit flavours drop away to almost nothing by the time the somewhat chunky tannins have started drying the mouth. Food helped with this dip in the palate and seemed to extend the wine's fruit flavours.

A fresh, lively wine that could probably take a light chill before serving. I've had more complete pinots for the price (mid $20s I think) but I did enjoy this.

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Poliziano Chianti 2006

This wine carried dinner foward last night, being served alongside our mains.

What a nice Chianti. This is a straightforward, very fresh expression of sangiovese. Again, not enormously expressive on the nose, but what is there indicates a savoury flavour profile of herbs and dried fruits. The palate confirms this, and from entry to finish flavours are carried along a nice line that livens the palate with a slightly rustic, acid-driven mouthfeel. Fruit flavours are akin to a packet of dried peel and red fruit, with herbs. Nothing too challenging or complex, but certainly tasty.

I think this wine would be a great one to have with an afternoon picnic of fresh bread, cheese and charcuterie. As it was last night, the wine supported our meal well but was a bit overpowered by the rich sauces that accompanied our food.

Yarra Burn Pinot Noir 2006

Really craving some pinot tonight, so off popped the cap on this little number.

Very promising nose of sweet and sour red fruit, and a hint of forest floor. Very Yarra Valley in character. The palate continues the flavour profile promised by the nose, with attractive, moderately complex pinot fruit mixed with very low level oak. Good intensity of flavour and nice length. Sourness is a feature of this wine's flavour.

The main issue with this wine is that its structure is quite "small scale". It's like a wine in miniature. As the wine enters the mouth, it is linear and consistent but somehow ungenerous. Just when you want the wine to open out, it maintains its linearity and never quite fills the periphery of the palate.

Still, delicious flavours, great value. Recommended.

Red Hill Estate Pinot Noir 2004

Staying a friend's house at the moment, so the drinking has been a little irregular! Did manage to work in this little number, though.

A transparent orange-red colour that was a little dull.Quite a meaty nose, beetroot-like, again a little dull perhaps, and subdued, also a bit hot. Livelier on the palate, with a slippery entry that leads to a spectrum of flavours showing good intensity and balance, if not great sophistication. More beetroot and bright red fruits that are a bit confected. Acid is very present and gives the palate a zippy feel. There's no great length of flavour, and the palate dies a bit towards the lightly drying finish, which is a shame.

I'm probably damning this one with faint praise. On the plus side, it's varietal, tasty, and cheap (I think I paid about $15). One could do a lot worse.

Marimar Torres Estate Don Miguel Torres Vineyard Pinot Noir 1999

Haven't had too many US pinots, so thought this might be an interesting diversion when I spotted it at the bottlo last week. Cheap too, at $19.

A dark, piercing nose whose sweet red fruit is somewhat swamped by other, more savoury characters. Leafiness and oak, mostly. A subtle entry into the mouth widens considerably on the middle palate. Again, the flavour profile is juicy red fruits (strawberry-like) mixed in with aged, leathery notes and considerable oak. There's reasonable intensity of flavour and enough bottle aged complexity to make this wine interesting. The wine is still quite tannic and could use some more softening, although I wonder whether the fruit will disappear before the oak has lost its aggressiveness. The finish is a bit hot.

This wine's fruit is varietal but I can't help thinking that it's been moulded in a style that drags it away from a pure expression of pinot noir and towards something chunkier and altogether less lightfooted. I also think perhaps this would have gone better with food.

Faiveley Bourgogne Rouge 2005

We've been having a fair few mid-priced local pinot noirs lately, so I thought it would be interesting to throw a Burgundy of roughly equivalent price into the mix. This one's from the celebrated 2005 vintage, from a widely available producer, and I picked this up for $26 at a local bottlo.

Reasonably dense ruby/garnet colour, not enormously bright, but still attractive. Initially, this wine was very tight on both nose and palate, with an assertively astringent finish that actually kicked in from about mid-palate onwards. A few hints of fruit and oak but that's it. So, a swirling we will go.

A few minutes of aeration saw the wine opening up and the finish, though not totally transformed, at least relaxed enough to allow the mid-palate to express itself in fruit terms. This wine's aroma shows a good amount of savoury red fruit that is subservient to a strong mineral/iron (like blood) aroma and a slightly doughy note too. It's tight, not hugely complex, and quite linear. The wine's entry is focused and opens out to a concentrated mid-palate of savoury fruit and iron, echoing the nose. Tannins kick in and carry the wine away firmly, with reasonable length, but with an intensity that diminishes a little too soon.

I like this wine's flavour profile and strong sense of personality, but it really does need some time to soften before it could ever become truly delicious.

South Pinot Noir 2006

Made by Andrew Pirie, part of his "South" budget label.

A bright, transparent ruby colour, tinges of purple, not very dense. Quite an expressive nose that is dominated by bright fruit and leafy, tobacco-like notes. The wine enters in quite a linear fashion but opens out nicely on the mid palate, spreading simple, sweet, light fruit flavours that remind me a bit of Central Otago pinot in character (if not weight). Moderate intensity of flavour. Noticeable acidity tingles the sides of the tongue. The wine's finish is lightly astringent and a bit short.

This wine is pretty, refreshing and nicely varietal. There's no great complexity of flavour, but it's very nice to drink and would go well with moderately spiced food.

Update: the wine opened up a fair bit over the course of the evening. It gained in density of fruit flavour, weight and complexity. It also lost a little of its attractive delicate touch.

Stonier Pinot Noir 2006

Fresh Mornington Peninsula pinot, here we go!

I like it when pinot gives off slightly stinky notes, and this one does, just a bit -- let's call it polite stink. The stink actually seems inseparable from the fruit in this wine's flavour profile, almost as if the light red fruit flavours have gone slightly putrid and started to develop savoury edges. So far, so good. The wine's aromas are quite delicate, with the aforementioned savoury fruit, beetroot and herbs/forest floor. There's a hint of sweetness in there but I'd say this wine is tipped firmly to the savoury end of the spectrum.

The palate is surprisingly light in body; it slips across the tongue and away, leaving some quite gorgeous flavours in its wake. Fairly forthright oak (caramel/milk coffee flavours) adds itself to the mix. The wine's mouthfeel is nicely astringent, seemingly driven by acid, but aided by fine yet drying tannins. All this is well and good but with each sip I keep wishing for a bit more presence, and for the flavours to assert themselves beyond the alluring whisper they repeatedly offer to me. Perhaps I'm in the mood for more generosity. Certainly, this wine has a lot of attractions if you enjoy a light, savoury red wine.

Coopers Creek Pinot Noir 2006

This wine, at about $16, was about the cheapest New Zealand pinot at Dan's last night. I don't know anything about Coopers Creek. Their website makes them look pretty industrial.

As I've mentioned before, I like Marlborough pinot and the examples I've tried have a prettiness that can be delicious. The colour looks promising, being a relatively dense ruby that shines nicely in the glass. This wine seems to have all the elements - attractive plummy fruit, some stalkiness, perhaps a bit of caramel oak, relatively firm tannins. But it's like tasting a wine from the other side of world, so lacking in intensity and presence are the flavours. I kept hoping the wine would open up a little, but I don't think there's enough there to transmit the sort of generosity I would have liked. Like having a nice meal waved under your nose and then taken away before you can get stuck in.

Having said that, it was a pleasant enough quaffer, refreshing, and not offensive in any way.

Peregrine Saddleback Pinot Noir 2005

This is Peregrine's second label pinot, with fruit from Central Otago and Marlborough regions. I haven't had a Central Otago pinot since returning from New Zealand in May, so was quite looking forward to this one. We had this by itself.

Very promising opening, with a fruity nose composed of that quite distinctive Central Otago "sweet/sour plum" note, as well as strawberries and more floral fragrances. Some savoury, perhaps lightly stalky notes also, although this wine is not overtly vegetal in flavour profile. The palate, though, seemed to be quite subdued relative to the initial nose, lighter in body than expected, lighter in intensity also, with a finish that trailed away too soon (from mid-palate onwards).

I thought perhaps it just needed some time in glass to open up, so we stretched the bottle out over a couple of hours. During that time, the attractive fruity flavours that showed initially seemd to blow off, leaving a wine that lacked substance and weight. To my palate, the wine ended up a bit thin and astringent, with attractive yet tantalisingly elusive flavours that never quite delivered on their initial promise.

I have another couple of bottles of this, I think, so we'll see how the next one goes.

Caledonia Australis Mount Macleod Pinot Noir 2004

I felt like a light red wine tonight, so we opened this little number.

This wine was cheap, about $16, and I wasn't expecting a lot. This wine has turned out to be a serious, though flawed, pinot noir of some interest.

A reticent nose of beetroot and subtle stalk seems to match the wine's transparently orange/red hue. It's in the mouth that this wine takes off. Its flavour is unexpectedly intense, with flagrantly aromatic beetroot and caramel oak leading into confected, slightly overripe berry fruit flavours. A lightly stalky note takes over towards the end of the palate, and the wine finishes in a puckery but not obviously tannic finish.

I like this wine and it's clearly a pinot that aims for sophistication and style. But the wine's flavour profile, specifically its fruit flavour, is slightly odd, and there's lack of integration across each individual component. Acidity in particular seems a bit "out there" with respect to the rest of the wine's structure.

It failed miserably to generate any synergy with the rather beefy meal we had along with it. Oh well.

Giesen Pinot Noir 2004

The standard Giesen Sauvignon Blanc has been a standby for us for some time. It's a pretty blatant expression of New Zealand sauvignon blanc, but when you're in the mood for something fragrant and juicy, it's hard to go past, especially at the price. I spotted the Giesen Pinot Noir the other day and decided to give it a whirl in hopes that it would match its white sibling and be a cheap, reliable choice. This 2004 edition is a blend of Marlborough and Canterbury grapes.

On opening, there's a nice burst of stalky aromatics. I know stalks are a bit love or hate in pinot noir, but I happen to like some stalk and so eagerly sniffed some more and got... more stalk. In the mouth, there's (surprise) more stalk, which would be fine except that when the stalk ends (about mid-palate) there's nothing left. The wine is very fruit-light, and I couldn't detect more than a hint of red fruit lurking in there.

We finished half the bottle and left the other half overnight. I've just retasted the wine this evening and the stalk has almost entirely blown off, leaving the wine essentially flavourless. There's a greenish sourness towards the back palate, but otherwise nothing of note.

Very disappointing.

Dog Point Pinot Noir 2005

Marlborough pinot. I know Martinborough and Central Otago seem to hog the limelight when it comes to NZ pinot, but I reckon Marlborough pinot has its own, very attractive character. It has a very bright, fruit driven flavour profile that manages to be luscious without any hint of "fake raspberry" confection that you find in some Australian pinots.

I reckon this Dog Point Pinot is a good example. It is quite forward and most definitely fruit driven, but what it lacks in (introduced) complexity it makes up for in deliciousness. It's all about the fruit. Bright, red, cherry-like, balancing sweet and sour with finesse. There are wisps of savoury character that frame and support the fruit: a bit of sappiness, a hint of stalk, some light caramel oak influence. Acidity is beautifully judged and fine, noticeable only insofar as it's impossible to ignore how much this wine makes one's mouth water. Most of all, though, you wouldn't want to mask the gorgeous voluptuousness of that fruit, and the winemaking is careful to help it shine. So easy to drink.

Kooyong Estate Pinot Noir 2004

Mornington Peninsula pinot.

The nose of this wine is strikingly expressive. It's not a wine that sneaks up on you. On initial sniffing, the dominant notes were of caramel oak and spices, with sour red fruits emerging after a few minutes of swirling. Distinctive, savoury and quite beguiling.

My first sip of this was disappointing, the palate not echoing the intensity of the nose. There is a slight hole in the middle palate, and the entry is not as explosive as you might expect, but the finish is what's extraordinary here, with great intensity and complexity flavour. The oak is very much present, but the fruit's sour deliciousness stands up well, creating a distinctive and more-ish flavour profile. The wine's mouthfeel is also notable in its velvet luxury.

Paringa Estate Peninsula Pinot Noir 2005

Another cheap pinot, this time from the Mornington Peninsula.

The style of this wine is pretty oak-driven, which is no doubt a conscious decision, but that does challenge my notion of the sort of young pinot I'd like to drink. A relatively expressive nose of overripe strawberries and spices is followed by more of the same on the palate. But, for my taste, the fruit recedes too far, structurally, with the oak dominating rather than framing the pinot fruit's (attractive) character. Intensity of flavour was only moderate, an impression perhaps created due to the wine's structure (I kept wanting the fruit to creep forward just a bit more than it did). Over the evening, the wine did balance out a little, and developed some extra complexity, but was still pretty oakey.

I liked this a lot more than the Tamar Ridge from the other night, because its flavour profile struck me as more delicious, but I shall continue to search for an inexpensive pinot that suits my tastes.

Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir 2004

I've been having pinot noir cravings of late, and have realised that my cellar has barely a drop. So I went to Dan's a bought a couple of budget offerings, hoping to get a bit of pinot love at little cost. Unfortunately, the De Bortoli Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, which I know and enjoy, has come off its super discounted price point, making it no longer an impulse buy for me.

So instead, we have the Tamar Ridge Pinot. If ever one wanted to illustrate the concepts of line, structure and coherence, this would be a good wine to taste -- so that you know what a lack of all these things means. Initially, I was happy to enjoy a whiff of varietally correct pinot fruit (that curious sweet/sour berry/cherry taste that's hard to describe but easy to recognise). But I quickly realised that there's nothing holding this wine together - it's a mix of flavours with no theme. The wine doesn't tell any sort of story from nose to palate, it just presents as a series of discrete sensations, none of which are grossly unpleasant (good fruit, oak in balance, slightly harsh but not awful acidity, somewhat rustic tannins), all lacking a sense of context.

A blah experience and, as I mentioned before, a good lesson in how those "intangibles" can make or break a wine.