Wednesday 19 September 2007

Yalumba The Menzies 1996 - redux

My last bottle. I tasted this a few weeks ago and found the fruit in that particular bottle had receded too far with respect to the oak.

How nice, then, that this bottle seems in much better condition and is altogether more satisfying a wine. The last bottle's oak spiciness is still present, but the big difference is that, here, a panorama of other flavours sit alongside it. There's clean, primary fruit, dusty leafy cabernet character, aniseed, secondary notes that are slightly stinky and sweet, all delivered through a silky, largely resolved mouthfeel. All the elements seem in balance and, although it's not a wine of inscrutable complexity, I love the extra dimension that bottle age has added to what was, in its youth, a fruity and fun wine.

Good bottles of this probably have some way to go, and I regret, now, not having purchased more so I could follow this wine further along its life. Perhaps auction will provide a solution. No matter -- a sophisticated wine that is drinking well.

4 comments:

Joe said...

Interesting. I have had substantial bottle-to-bottle variation with the 1999 Menzies. The last bottle I had should have been cellared longer, while the previous two were past their prime.
Cheers!

Julian said...

Thanks for the comment!

I've only recently begun to start drinking many of the wines that I collected when I first started buying wine (about ten years ago), and the truism about there being only great bottles, not great wines, seems to hold. I guess it makes those good bottles that much more precious.

Great blog, by the way!

Joe said...

I haven't been collecting as long as you, and my "surge" was about two years ago, so I have a "bulge" of wines that will peak in about 3-5 years and precious few that have gone the distance. Thanks for your comments and your links, I have linked you up as well.
Cheers!

Julian said...

I just ran a couple of reports and it looks like the rate of purchase accelerated around 2002 for me as well. It was an excellent riesling year. :)

Hopefully there is a heap of great drinking in store for us both!