We had this last night with big steaks at the Breakfast Creek Hotel. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday evening, I must say.
This is a sophisticated, pinot-like expression of cool climate shiraz that disappeared very quickly from the bottle. The flavour profile of this tends towards the red fruit, dried spice end of the spectrum. This wine is so clean. Sparkling red fruits leap from the glass and intermingle with a variety of spicy notes, and oak also contributes a vanillan, perhaps slightly sappy note. Everything's in balance, politely taking its place alongside the other elements.
Quite a light wine in the mouth, medium bodied at most, but with an appropriate level of flavour intensity and great persistence. Acid plays the primary role in this wine's structure, contributing not only length but also a deliciously fresh, astringent mouthfeel. Tannins are very fine and do not dominate in any way.
This wine is drinking so well now but I would like to see some secondary characters develop and add extra interest. At the moment, the wine is super "correct" and very tasty, but if I were to criticise it at all, it would be for a slight lack of personality. Perhaps some bottle age with help this wine to shine in its own, individual manner.
Sunday 30 September 2007
Wednesday 26 September 2007
Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2007
I love this wine, generally, and it's been one of my favourite rieslings in the past. I always look forward to its release each year. This 2007 has been getting some great write ups so it was with some eagerness that I popped the top on our bottle tonight.
I'm happy to say that this wine isn't disappointing at all. In fact, I'm seriously impressed. The 2007, or this bottle at least, isn't as explosively fragrant as some previous vintages have been. It does, though, express an enticing floral/slatey aroma, slightly powdery perhaps, certainly attractive. The palate more than makes up for any slight aromatic reticence. A complex flavour profile of citrus blossom, lemon juice and slate explodes in the mouth and is carried the full length of the palate by lively, yet fine, acidity. This riesling sets itself apart from more ordinary examples through both the complexity of its flavour, and its clearly defined structure and mouthfeel. It's like a mixture of the sensuous and the intellectual, well balanced between extremes such that all one's desires as a wine appreciator are met.
I'll be springing for some of this, no question.
I'm happy to say that this wine isn't disappointing at all. In fact, I'm seriously impressed. The 2007, or this bottle at least, isn't as explosively fragrant as some previous vintages have been. It does, though, express an enticing floral/slatey aroma, slightly powdery perhaps, certainly attractive. The palate more than makes up for any slight aromatic reticence. A complex flavour profile of citrus blossom, lemon juice and slate explodes in the mouth and is carried the full length of the palate by lively, yet fine, acidity. This riesling sets itself apart from more ordinary examples through both the complexity of its flavour, and its clearly defined structure and mouthfeel. It's like a mixture of the sensuous and the intellectual, well balanced between extremes such that all one's desires as a wine appreciator are met.
I'll be springing for some of this, no question.
Sunday 23 September 2007
Peregrine Saddleback Pinot Noir 2005
This is Peregrine's second label pinot, with fruit from Central Otago and Marlborough regions. I haven't had a Central Otago pinot since returning from New Zealand in May, so was quite looking forward to this one. We had this by itself.
Very promising opening, with a fruity nose composed of that quite distinctive Central Otago "sweet/sour plum" note, as well as strawberries and more floral fragrances. Some savoury, perhaps lightly stalky notes also, although this wine is not overtly vegetal in flavour profile. The palate, though, seemed to be quite subdued relative to the initial nose, lighter in body than expected, lighter in intensity also, with a finish that trailed away too soon (from mid-palate onwards).
I thought perhaps it just needed some time in glass to open up, so we stretched the bottle out over a couple of hours. During that time, the attractive fruity flavours that showed initially seemd to blow off, leaving a wine that lacked substance and weight. To my palate, the wine ended up a bit thin and astringent, with attractive yet tantalisingly elusive flavours that never quite delivered on their initial promise.
I have another couple of bottles of this, I think, so we'll see how the next one goes.
Very promising opening, with a fruity nose composed of that quite distinctive Central Otago "sweet/sour plum" note, as well as strawberries and more floral fragrances. Some savoury, perhaps lightly stalky notes also, although this wine is not overtly vegetal in flavour profile. The palate, though, seemed to be quite subdued relative to the initial nose, lighter in body than expected, lighter in intensity also, with a finish that trailed away too soon (from mid-palate onwards).
I thought perhaps it just needed some time in glass to open up, so we stretched the bottle out over a couple of hours. During that time, the attractive fruity flavours that showed initially seemd to blow off, leaving a wine that lacked substance and weight. To my palate, the wine ended up a bit thin and astringent, with attractive yet tantalisingly elusive flavours that never quite delivered on their initial promise.
I have another couple of bottles of this, I think, so we'll see how the next one goes.
Thursday 20 September 2007
Peregrine Rastaburn Riesling 2005
Another wine from the recent order from Peregrine, this time a riesling.
This is a pretty slutty sort of wine -- upfront, generous; a very public display. It's an off-dry style and the overall impression is, well, exotic. Heady aromas of white peach, lychee and (as the wine warms in the glass) spicy incense intermingle within a thick nose that lacks a little in elegance. On the palate, amirable generosity of flavour is carried along by noticeable acidity and bitter phenolics. The residual sugar is really well judged and works in favour of both fruit and structure, enhancing the former whilst moderating the latter.
This isn't the most sophisticated wine, but it's refreshing, delicious and full of flavour.
This is a pretty slutty sort of wine -- upfront, generous; a very public display. It's an off-dry style and the overall impression is, well, exotic. Heady aromas of white peach, lychee and (as the wine warms in the glass) spicy incense intermingle within a thick nose that lacks a little in elegance. On the palate, amirable generosity of flavour is carried along by noticeable acidity and bitter phenolics. The residual sugar is really well judged and works in favour of both fruit and structure, enhancing the former whilst moderating the latter.
This isn't the most sophisticated wine, but it's refreshing, delicious and full of flavour.
Wednesday 19 September 2007
Yalumba The Menzies 1996 - redux
My last bottle. I tasted this a few weeks ago and found the fruit in that particular bottle had receded too far with respect to the oak.
How nice, then, that this bottle seems in much better condition and is altogether more satisfying a wine. The last bottle's oak spiciness is still present, but the big difference is that, here, a panorama of other flavours sit alongside it. There's clean, primary fruit, dusty leafy cabernet character, aniseed, secondary notes that are slightly stinky and sweet, all delivered through a silky, largely resolved mouthfeel. All the elements seem in balance and, although it's not a wine of inscrutable complexity, I love the extra dimension that bottle age has added to what was, in its youth, a fruity and fun wine.
Good bottles of this probably have some way to go, and I regret, now, not having purchased more so I could follow this wine further along its life. Perhaps auction will provide a solution. No matter -- a sophisticated wine that is drinking well.
How nice, then, that this bottle seems in much better condition and is altogether more satisfying a wine. The last bottle's oak spiciness is still present, but the big difference is that, here, a panorama of other flavours sit alongside it. There's clean, primary fruit, dusty leafy cabernet character, aniseed, secondary notes that are slightly stinky and sweet, all delivered through a silky, largely resolved mouthfeel. All the elements seem in balance and, although it's not a wine of inscrutable complexity, I love the extra dimension that bottle age has added to what was, in its youth, a fruity and fun wine.
Good bottles of this probably have some way to go, and I regret, now, not having purchased more so I could follow this wine further along its life. Perhaps auction will provide a solution. No matter -- a sophisticated wine that is drinking well.
Tuesday 18 September 2007
Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2006
Ok, so I'm already a little pissed from a lame sauvignon blanc we finished before dinner. But this wine is nice.
This wine's nose of violets, fake raspberry and licorice allsorts seems to me reminiscent of gamay. This wine is always a fragrant one, in my experience, and the 2006 continues the trend with an expressive nose that I understand best in terms of colour: it reminds me of vivid purple. There are also notes of citrus peel - again, fragrant and expressive.
On the palate, there's a gush of gently fruity flavour, perhaps a little unfocussed. Medium bodied, the wine's structure is relatively soft but well defined, the acidity in particular is quite mouthwatering.
This vintage seems more approchable than my recollection of prior years' wines, not that the Hilltops has ever struck me as especially forbidding when young. If the fruit flavour were more clearly delineated, this would have been even better. I have several bottles in the cellar and will track it with interest.
This wine's nose of violets, fake raspberry and licorice allsorts seems to me reminiscent of gamay. This wine is always a fragrant one, in my experience, and the 2006 continues the trend with an expressive nose that I understand best in terms of colour: it reminds me of vivid purple. There are also notes of citrus peel - again, fragrant and expressive.
On the palate, there's a gush of gently fruity flavour, perhaps a little unfocussed. Medium bodied, the wine's structure is relatively soft but well defined, the acidity in particular is quite mouthwatering.
This vintage seems more approchable than my recollection of prior years' wines, not that the Hilltops has ever struck me as especially forbidding when young. If the fruit flavour were more clearly delineated, this would have been even better. I have several bottles in the cellar and will track it with interest.
Sunday 16 September 2007
Tyrrell's Vat 9 Shiraz 2005
I could smell this wine as soon as I started pouring it, which always makes me smile.
Hunter Shiraz often smells to me like dried brown dusty earth, and this is really typical. It's got that lovely dusty, dirty, meaty smell that leads into some toasty vanillan oak, all of which frames a core of sweet/savoury red fruit of exceptional quality. This wine has great "line" and one's experience of it flows smoothly from nose to palate and finish. Intensity of flavour is high, although the wine is only just medium bodied. This wine's structure seems acid-driven. I just can't get over the quality and complex flavour delivered by the fruit in this wine. It's clean and ripe and, although it has a sweet dimension, the wine as a whole remains savoury in its flavour profile.
Drinking well now but I'm certainly going to leave some bottles in the cellar and see how they develop.
I was a bit worried when I first opened the wine as there was some sulphur hanging about, but this blew off quickly, leaving a very clean wine behind.
Update: this wine has opened up further over the course of our meal, with some additional aniseed/medicinal notes emerging. The wine has also developed some weight and intensity in the glass. A really beautiful wine.
Hunter Shiraz often smells to me like dried brown dusty earth, and this is really typical. It's got that lovely dusty, dirty, meaty smell that leads into some toasty vanillan oak, all of which frames a core of sweet/savoury red fruit of exceptional quality. This wine has great "line" and one's experience of it flows smoothly from nose to palate and finish. Intensity of flavour is high, although the wine is only just medium bodied. This wine's structure seems acid-driven. I just can't get over the quality and complex flavour delivered by the fruit in this wine. It's clean and ripe and, although it has a sweet dimension, the wine as a whole remains savoury in its flavour profile.
Drinking well now but I'm certainly going to leave some bottles in the cellar and see how they develop.
I was a bit worried when I first opened the wine as there was some sulphur hanging about, but this blew off quickly, leaving a very clean wine behind.
Update: this wine has opened up further over the course of our meal, with some additional aniseed/medicinal notes emerging. The wine has also developed some weight and intensity in the glass. A really beautiful wine.
Saturday 15 September 2007
Peregrine Pinot Gris 2006
We had a good experience earlier this year visiting the Peregrine cellar door in the Gibbston sub-region of Central Otago. I found the wines to be consistently interesting, and the winemaking displayed a clear idea of style. The aromatic whites, as was the case for me at many cellar doors in Central Otago, seemed especially delicious, so I've been wanting to get stuck into some of the wines that arrived in a recent shipment from the winery. Tonight we have the 2006 Pinot Gris. I'm not a pinot gris fan, in general.
But oh, here we have a pinot gris with actual flavour. Granted, it's not an especially complex flavour, but still. The primary aromas are of crunchy pears and apples, with a slightly herbal (perhaps aniseedy) astringency adding some a non-fruity dimension to the flavour. The palate is graced with bubbly acidity that is fun and suggests the wine would benefit from some food (chicken salad is on its way). The aniseed/herbal flavour is more apparent in the mouth. Some phenolics make themselves felt, adding both mouthfeel and bitterness to the finish, and I think these are well judged. The wine feels a bit hot, but again, I couldn't say it's unbalanced at all.
I'm still not a huge pinot gris fan, but this is certainly a nice wine.
By the way, if you like Peregrine wines, they sell to Australian buyers out of a warehouse in Sydney, at their NZ prices. Just email them for an order form.
But oh, here we have a pinot gris with actual flavour. Granted, it's not an especially complex flavour, but still. The primary aromas are of crunchy pears and apples, with a slightly herbal (perhaps aniseedy) astringency adding some a non-fruity dimension to the flavour. The palate is graced with bubbly acidity that is fun and suggests the wine would benefit from some food (chicken salad is on its way). The aniseed/herbal flavour is more apparent in the mouth. Some phenolics make themselves felt, adding both mouthfeel and bitterness to the finish, and I think these are well judged. The wine feels a bit hot, but again, I couldn't say it's unbalanced at all.
I'm still not a huge pinot gris fan, but this is certainly a nice wine.
By the way, if you like Peregrine wines, they sell to Australian buyers out of a warehouse in Sydney, at their NZ prices. Just email them for an order form.
Tuesday 11 September 2007
Bannockburn "The Estate" Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2004
In an attempt to compensate for the explosively faulty Cotes du Rhone, we opened another bottle last night. This Bannockburn wine is apparently a "Dan Murphy exclusive." Mercifully, no brett was apparent, though this wine isn't in a style that I'd describe as especially "clean."
It does, however, possess a clear, bright line of juicy, grape-like fruit that is evident both on the nose and the palate. It's like a cross between black currant and raspberry and, although it's a little one-dimensional, it's certainly tasty. There are darker, dusty savoury notes that frame the fruit, and these take over towards the end of the palate, with a nice tobacco leaf note edging in just as the mild tannins wind up the wine. Balanced acidity adds a little sourness to the flavour profile, in addition to some brightness to the mouthfeel. It's medium bodied, not especially structured, and a nice drop.
As an aside, before this wine, we finished the bottle of Gulf Station Shiraz Viognier, which had been sitting out (cap on) overnight. It had lost a bit of its freshness, and the viognier was showing itself more, with a slight apricot note and a more floral flavour profile. The wine remained good, though, its "sour fruit" profile intact. Interestingly, it overpowered the rump steak with which we had it. It was too bright, too acidic and light.
It does, however, possess a clear, bright line of juicy, grape-like fruit that is evident both on the nose and the palate. It's like a cross between black currant and raspberry and, although it's a little one-dimensional, it's certainly tasty. There are darker, dusty savoury notes that frame the fruit, and these take over towards the end of the palate, with a nice tobacco leaf note edging in just as the mild tannins wind up the wine. Balanced acidity adds a little sourness to the flavour profile, in addition to some brightness to the mouthfeel. It's medium bodied, not especially structured, and a nice drop.
As an aside, before this wine, we finished the bottle of Gulf Station Shiraz Viognier, which had been sitting out (cap on) overnight. It had lost a bit of its freshness, and the viognier was showing itself more, with a slight apricot note and a more floral flavour profile. The wine remained good, though, its "sour fruit" profile intact. Interestingly, it overpowered the rump steak with which we had it. It was too bright, too acidic and light.
Monday 10 September 2007
Sunday 9 September 2007
De Bortoli Gulf Station Shiraz Viognier 2005
It's been a relaxing Sunday and I wanted to open something relatively unchallenging to pass the time this evening. I thought this might fit the bill, but I was wrong. It's a much better wine than that. I can't believe this quality for the price (about $16 at Dan's).
On the nose, this wine has a complex, primarily dark flavour profile with a clear but subservient line of bright, sour red fruits and lighter fragrance peeking through, perhaps also some vegetal/stalk notes, which I liked. Mostly, though, it's rich dark berries and cooked meats, showing real density of flavour. Structurally, this wine is strikingly pinot-like, with a most delicious fruit sourness at its medium-bodied core. Sort of like stewed cherries. It's intense and integrated, oak playing but a minor role in the wine's flavour. The finish dries firmly at the very end, due to the fine tannins. It's elegant, intense and delicious.
This wine is fantastic.
On the nose, this wine has a complex, primarily dark flavour profile with a clear but subservient line of bright, sour red fruits and lighter fragrance peeking through, perhaps also some vegetal/stalk notes, which I liked. Mostly, though, it's rich dark berries and cooked meats, showing real density of flavour. Structurally, this wine is strikingly pinot-like, with a most delicious fruit sourness at its medium-bodied core. Sort of like stewed cherries. It's intense and integrated, oak playing but a minor role in the wine's flavour. The finish dries firmly at the very end, due to the fine tannins. It's elegant, intense and delicious.
This wine is fantastic.
Friday 7 September 2007
Lillydale Estate Chardonnay 2006
A couple of bottles of the 2005 were consumed with friends earlier this year, and fun times ensued. I chose this wine to have last night because I thought it would a) be a nice contrast to the Brand's we had earlier, and b) go well with the salmon that my other half was preparing for dinner.
It did go well with the food. We started drinking it, however, on its own, and I found the nose somewhat reticent. Light, fine aromas of white peach and grapefruit emerged, framed by wispy vanilla/oak notes. The palate expands on these flavours, and I found both palate and nose notable for their good flavour integration. Nothing stands out unduly, everything is in balance, though the wine is quite restrained, overall. There's a line of acidity that runs under the palate and is quite firm, without being coarse. With food, the wine's fruit flavours emerged more strongly on the palate, and a rather nice roundness developed, especially of the grapefruity flavours. The oak, if anything, is a bit straightforward but, mercifully, is not hugely assertive either. With some time in glass, a struck match/rotten egg note became more prominent and, for me, distracting. I left some in a glass and, this morning, found the note had receded to an acceptably low level, though it did not disappear entirely.
So, an elegant, cool climate chardonnay that seems well made and has good fruit. Perhaps it was my mood last night, but the wine, though enjoyable, didn't really get me very excited. I kept wanting it to be that bit more expressive.
It did go well with the food. We started drinking it, however, on its own, and I found the nose somewhat reticent. Light, fine aromas of white peach and grapefruit emerged, framed by wispy vanilla/oak notes. The palate expands on these flavours, and I found both palate and nose notable for their good flavour integration. Nothing stands out unduly, everything is in balance, though the wine is quite restrained, overall. There's a line of acidity that runs under the palate and is quite firm, without being coarse. With food, the wine's fruit flavours emerged more strongly on the palate, and a rather nice roundness developed, especially of the grapefruity flavours. The oak, if anything, is a bit straightforward but, mercifully, is not hugely assertive either. With some time in glass, a struck match/rotten egg note became more prominent and, for me, distracting. I left some in a glass and, this morning, found the note had receded to an acceptably low level, though it did not disappear entirely.
So, an elegant, cool climate chardonnay that seems well made and has good fruit. Perhaps it was my mood last night, but the wine, though enjoyable, didn't really get me very excited. I kept wanting it to be that bit more expressive.
Wednesday 5 September 2007
Brand's Laira Coonawarra Chardonnay 2005
This wine makes a refreshing change from the lean, mean chardonnays I have been drinking of late. It feels in some ways like a blast from the past, being a much softer style of wine. I used a bit of this in cooking the chicken with cream sauce we had last night, the rest being reserved for drinking with the meal. It disappeared pretty quickly.
The nice thing about this wine is that it is an unashamedly rich, round style of chardonnay that is also in balance. It's just that the balance is completely different from the acid-driven wines that seem to be the new wave in Australian chardonnay. Instead of being aggressively structured and brightly flavoured, this wine is pure peaches and cream smoothness. The nose is moderately expressive and is basically lightly spicy peaches and vanilla cream. Soft and round and slightly sweet. The palate is consistent with this, but much amplified, and adds a caressing mouthfeel to the mix. There are hints of malo butter/butterscotch in there, but these notes are not over the top. At first I thought this wine had traded in all its acid, but in fact it's still there, just in the background, providing a bit of support for the wine's structure. Oak seems to provide body and flavour rather than being the main event.
This is such a nice quaffing wine, and I mean that in the best way. It's well made, with attractive flavours, good balance, and a very high drinkability rating. Our bottle disappeared pretty quickly. But I can imagine someone who preferred a more Chablis style hating this wine. Oh, it's also pretty good value. I think I paid about $15 for this at Dan's.
The nice thing about this wine is that it is an unashamedly rich, round style of chardonnay that is also in balance. It's just that the balance is completely different from the acid-driven wines that seem to be the new wave in Australian chardonnay. Instead of being aggressively structured and brightly flavoured, this wine is pure peaches and cream smoothness. The nose is moderately expressive and is basically lightly spicy peaches and vanilla cream. Soft and round and slightly sweet. The palate is consistent with this, but much amplified, and adds a caressing mouthfeel to the mix. There are hints of malo butter/butterscotch in there, but these notes are not over the top. At first I thought this wine had traded in all its acid, but in fact it's still there, just in the background, providing a bit of support for the wine's structure. Oak seems to provide body and flavour rather than being the main event.
This is such a nice quaffing wine, and I mean that in the best way. It's well made, with attractive flavours, good balance, and a very high drinkability rating. Our bottle disappeared pretty quickly. But I can imagine someone who preferred a more Chablis style hating this wine. Oh, it's also pretty good value. I think I paid about $15 for this at Dan's.
Monday 3 September 2007
Caledonia Australis Mount Macleod Pinot Noir 2004
I felt like a light red wine tonight, so we opened this little number.
This wine was cheap, about $16, and I wasn't expecting a lot. This wine has turned out to be a serious, though flawed, pinot noir of some interest.
A reticent nose of beetroot and subtle stalk seems to match the wine's transparently orange/red hue. It's in the mouth that this wine takes off. Its flavour is unexpectedly intense, with flagrantly aromatic beetroot and caramel oak leading into confected, slightly overripe berry fruit flavours. A lightly stalky note takes over towards the end of the palate, and the wine finishes in a puckery but not obviously tannic finish.
I like this wine and it's clearly a pinot that aims for sophistication and style. But the wine's flavour profile, specifically its fruit flavour, is slightly odd, and there's lack of integration across each individual component. Acidity in particular seems a bit "out there" with respect to the rest of the wine's structure.
It failed miserably to generate any synergy with the rather beefy meal we had along with it. Oh well.
This wine was cheap, about $16, and I wasn't expecting a lot. This wine has turned out to be a serious, though flawed, pinot noir of some interest.
A reticent nose of beetroot and subtle stalk seems to match the wine's transparently orange/red hue. It's in the mouth that this wine takes off. Its flavour is unexpectedly intense, with flagrantly aromatic beetroot and caramel oak leading into confected, slightly overripe berry fruit flavours. A lightly stalky note takes over towards the end of the palate, and the wine finishes in a puckery but not obviously tannic finish.
I like this wine and it's clearly a pinot that aims for sophistication and style. But the wine's flavour profile, specifically its fruit flavour, is slightly odd, and there's lack of integration across each individual component. Acidity in particular seems a bit "out there" with respect to the rest of the wine's structure.
It failed miserably to generate any synergy with the rather beefy meal we had along with it. Oh well.
Peppoli Chianti Classico 2003
Another Chianti Classico, this time from 2003. This was a step up from the Gabbiano we had the other night. The most remarkable difference was in the length of the palate, this wine showing a dry, finely chalky finish that, with the addition of food, extended the length of the fruit flavour most satisfyingly. Speaking of which, the fruit flavour had that nicely savoury, almost raisiny sangiovese varietal character and was very much in balance. This flavour was accompanied by dried herb and floral notes, especially on the nose. Acidity added a pleasantly sour tang to the palate, as well as enhancing the complexity of the mouthfeel. Oak was a subtle flavour influence, barely discernable. Not a worldbeater, and could have used a step up in intensity of flavour, but still, a balanced wine of attractive character.
We sacrificed this wine to some gourmet pizzas and the greasiness of the food was a little overwhelming. A more rustic, less "modern" Chianti Classico would have worked better.
We sacrificed this wine to some gourmet pizzas and the greasiness of the food was a little overwhelming. A more rustic, less "modern" Chianti Classico would have worked better.
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